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Archive for the ‘Kenya’ Category

Andrew, at the end of the night, suggested an adventure at dawn the next day.

“Let’s fly to South Island on Turkana, see if we can catch a Nile Perch, and if we can’t we can have some breakfast anyway, and take in some views.”

Chiyulu added “We can break the doors off to get some air-conditioning and you wont feel cramped at all”

We went and this is what we saw:

We started at Ol Malo and then in a north-westerly direction over the Lerochi Plateau, Painted Valley, the croc pools on the Rift Valley floor and ancient lava flows. Heading north up the Suguta River, across the sand dunes to Lake Logipi and over the ridge of the Teliui volcano to the Nabaitum crater on Turkana Lake shore landing on South Island. It took two hours with some low-level aerobatics – we even had some of Andrews’ afro-pop in our ears. After a splash and two small tilapia we returned Via Mount Nyiro, the Horr Valley, the Ndotos, Milgis Lugga and the Mathews Range to Sarara. There are 30 slides.

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We spotted Gabriel from across the swollen river, in his striking red shukka, standing aside a large dome-shaped back of a camel. Steve Carey ferried us across the chocolate waters and we slipped into walking boots. We had a hike ahead lead by Gabriel though the Tumaren Ranch to rendezvous with Kerry Glen in the evening. Camels were on hand and we could see a landmark of the koppie to walk to on the horizon. The morning was cool and we set off to absorb the surroundings, with Gabriel imparting his knowledge on us as we stepped out.

The scenery from the koppie stretched out for miles and you could sit there for hours spotting movements in the bush below. We returned to the outcrop for sundown and the view takes your breath away. Kerry moves her camps and they are small and intimate, simple and comfortable. Just what it should be like. The one we claimed is in a pole position on a bend in the river.

You get to camp after a long walk, take a cooling shower, are handed an ice cold Tusker, slop in a chair and look at the river. Dusk falls, another Tusker and a fabulous bush meal arrives and Kerry brings the region alive. In bed by 9, listening to the prrrp of the diminutive Scops owl. It does not get much better.

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On a dusty bend in the road north between Nairobi and Nanyuki, Gordie Church lurked in ambush sporting flat cap and razor sharp side burns. A long awaited re-union with a gangly old friend and Felicia on their shamba, resting in between safaris. A fitting start, over a few Tuskers, to 5 weeks in Kenya, exploring the north and then onto Lamu Island, an original Swahili settlement on the coast of East Africa.

Next stop was to see some friends of Sarah’s, Jordie and Steve Carey, who have just opened Laikipia Wilderness Camp a couple of hours drive from Nanyuki, set in striking scenery overlooking a bend in the river. We flycamped, swam in the river, tracked wild dog, gorged on wild honey, listened to a lion kill a zebra to be attacked by hyena, at close range, in pitch blackness – a thrilling experience. We saw a community in harmony with nature, with wildlife and cattle living side by side, and experienced a remarkable region of Africa.

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